Day 6 - Fez

This morning received an awakening blast of Islamic culture in the form of the the 4.30 am call to prayers. There are two or three mosques by our hostel, so we got a full-throated introduction. Personally I'd prefer a religion that woke me at around 10.00 am with coffee and pastries, but I suppose to each his own. To be honest though, couldn't help but to feel a little excited, despite the early hour.

View from our Hostel Window, Fez (Photo: Faber)

Today saw myself, Tim and the Swedes taking a tour of the Medina. We took a tour of the old city with an unofficial guide who was attached to our hostel. I know, naughty us, should have used an official guide and all that, but still, he took us into places that we wouldn't have found on our own (and if we did, we most probably wouldn't have been able to find our way back). Though he did have a habit of disappearing at the sight of the police (and at one stage the mayor). The tour did include (as expected) a couple of enthusiastic carpet sellers who were keen to make a sale, but that was never going to happen.

Tim and the Swedes, Fez (Photo: Mills)

The tour also took in the dye pits (with complimentary sprig of mint to keep the smell at bay) and the adjoining leather goods shop. The salesman here made me particularly feel like a resource to be exploited, which wasn't nice. I suppose when it comes down to it we are exploiting their culture for our own ends, so some give and take has to take place.

Dye Pits, Fez (Smell not included) (Photo: Mills)

Got the hard sell in a "Berber Pharmacy", with the increasingly desperate salesman resorting to trying to sell us opium, much to our guides dismay.

For lunch I tried, with some hesitation, pigeon pie. While eating it I tryed to keep the image of the disease-ridden London pigeons I was used to out of my mind. It turned out to be very nice. The pie itself was a savoury dish, but the pastry was sweetened and sprinkled with icing sugar. It shouldn't work, but it does.

Cat in Side Alley, Fez (Photo: Mills)

At our guides suggestion we talked our way into Riad Fez, one of Fez's most luxurious accommodation options, to see how rich tourists sleep (one of the Swede's was a journalist, so we let him do the talking). It turns out that the rich tourists sleep very well. The place was amazing, it is almost impossible to comprehend that it does. Outside the wall is indistinguishable from those around it, but once you are through the door it opens up into the most palatial mansion.

Me in ludicrously narrow alley, Fez (Photo: Faber)

It is not a particularly original observation to make, but the labyrinth like layout of the old city of Fez is extraordinary. The main streets are just wide enough for carts drawn by donkeys, and some of the side streets are so narrow you almost have to turn sideways to fit. This leads me into the strange sight for today - a man in traditional dress leading an overladen donkey down a medieval lane, while talking animatedly on a very modern mobile phone.